Cleared to Proceed!

Day: 125 — Position: N14 31.7’ E146 04.4’
Odometer since Waikiki: about 3,457M
Distance to Apra Harbor entrance on Guam: 111M
Sea surface temperature: 82.6F - 28.1C

OCEAN ROWING RECORDS AS RUNNING TOTALS
Solo career total in days: 1,050 (New World Record)
Overall career total in days: 1,134 (New World Record)
Solo career total in miles by Waikiki: 22,173M now about 25,392M (New World Record)
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Overall career total in miles by Waikiki: 25,153M now about 28,372M
* Ralph Tuijn (NL) leads this with 35,635M
** Circumference of the Earth along the equator is 21,600M long

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Remember my lament in my last update about problems that humanity creates for me on my journeys? What I referred to as a “stick-in-my-spokes sort of problem” then, was “major live fire events in the area north of Guam between Guam and Rota on Feb 10th and 11th.” Those dates happened to coincide with exactly the dates that I would cross that gap. Well, it was the same humanity that in the end, demonstrated their concern and mindfulness for my safety.

When I received that news, I had to take a pause and then come up with solutions. When such a roadblock appears on the horizon, often I begin thinking about options and alternatives. If I don’t initially see one, I remind myself that I must create one. As long as I can be creative, there usually are ways around, even if those may require more work. This one required a vigilant shore team, active contingency planning, connections to access the U.S. Navy operations on Guam and a bit of brainstorming to develop options.

But first I looked at the distance ahead to Rota Island, then the additional 32M between the two that I would have to cross before the live fire exercises kicked off early on the 10th. I didn’t have any specifics about the exclusion zone. I assumed a rectangular live fire zone covering a large surface. Not knowing what the sea would offer between where I was and Rota, I could not guarantee a pace to exit at the far end of the live fire zone before the start time, which I assumed to be at o’dark hundred on Thursday the 10th.

So I put the brakes on, deployed my para anchor to drop my pace from almost 2 knots. Depending on a combination of winds, waves, swells and currents, how the boat behaved with a deployed para anchor varies. While I nervously observed that The Ocean was carrying me west and that I was losing my positional advantage for Guam, all hands were on deck to help.

NOAA Commander (ret) Mark Miller on my shore team, talked to Navy Chief Gee and also coordinated civilian support vessels on both Rota and Guam. Jason Christensen (https://racingthewind.com) consulted with Prof. Nikolai Maximenko at the University of Hawaii with their drift model to see how the ocean was likely to behave.

We looked at Songsong on the west coast of Rota; its SW corner as an anchorage spot if necessary. Here I could seek a tow into a difficult marina then wait for the exercises to end. That location was exposed with swells and currents, and the north coast approach was reported to be particularly rough this time of the year. Approaching from the south side of Rota, I could proceed west to turn north into the Sasanhaya Bay where I could similarly anchor and wait. But could I stick either anchorage? That is a big unknown. To make sure that I would not wash downstream into the live fire zone, we had to arrange for a possible escort vessel on Rota.

The other option, descending down the east coast of Guam, was not encouraged by the USCG unit on Guam on account of “the predominant sea currents from the east, pushing a compressed longshore current south along the eastern side of Guam, then rounding Guam shifting westward at an increased velocity.” Besides, there would be live fire exercises on the east side of Guam also!

Thankfully, my ultra runner friend, Becky Rogers was following my story. I already mentioned her before in one of my blog updates in the context of unusual summer weather in 2021. I wrote about how she had to abort her FKT (Fastest Known Time, man or woman) attempt at the Pacific Crest Trail due to fires, multiple detours and toxic smoke. It was disappointing for her no doubt.

So Becky invited her husband, Randy into the conversation about my dilemma. He is a test and evaluation director for the US Navy, whose job puts him in direct communication with those who manage such live fire actions. He was already aware of my limitations with a rowboat and how committed I was to a narrow path to execute my plans. When Randy mentioned a “safe transit corridor,” that got my attention. I provided my vessel specifics along with my planned route through the gap and also ensured that he and Mark Miller consulted on how to solve this problem.

After about three days on para anchor, my westerly drift finally forced my hand yesterday morning and I gathered my para anchor. I still did not have a firm answer, but in the meantime, I had to execute my own plan which was to reach Sasanhaya Bay in order to drop anchor there to wait. My approach to Rota would take another three days which was more time waiting to receive a response.

The president of Ocean Recovery Alliance, Doug Woodring had introduced us to his friend on Guam, Mike Cassidy who was enthusiastic to help with his vessel. When we began asking about resources on Rota, Mike contacted his friend Fidel who had a vessel there with a range of 15M and willing to assist. If the currents and channeling winds proved too much for me to turn into Sasanhaya Bay under my own power, perhaps Fidel could snag me right at the corner to help anchor in the bay, and prevent me from being carried into the live fire zone!

Then I got the good news. Mark was finally able to obtain enough details thanks to Randy’s intervention. We just had to reach the right people. “You are clear to go straight on your planned route to Guam, without stopping at Rota. Unless you get set way off track, the path is cleared for a straight run without fear of getting shot at. Again… no live fire exercise is a concern if you just keep going.”

Then we received this wonderful message from Navy Chief, Jeffrey Gee:
“Strictly for safety purposes, I have coordinated with the unit conducting the live fire training on the 10th and they agreed to utilize the live fire air space on the east side of the island, so there will not be any live fire events occurring on his path.”

I truly hope I will get to meet the women and men running these exercises and to thank them on behalf of the Navy Chief. They empathized at the highest level, took into account the limitations of this fellow mariner, and generously offered me a path forward. For all of this, I remain humbled and grateful.

Now it is up to me to execute and stay on my planned course. I am sending this update in the morning on Wednesday the 9th (local time). I will pass by the SE coast of Rota probably in another 24 hours, roughly by noon on Thursday the 10th. From that point, I will proceed to round the shoals CCW over a distance of 32M. Apra Harbor entrance on the west side of Guam is 20M further due SSW from those shoals. I am guessing that I will reach Apra early on Friday.

Erden