Reached Currimao on Jan 29

NOTE: You know about the Feb 6 earthquake in southeastern Turkey by now. On my homepage, I shared the link to the reliable US-based nonprofit Turkish Philanthropic Funds. I am linking their dedicated earthquake relief fund again in case you are looking for ways to help.

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After I shared my last blog post, with concerns from my marine electrician Brian Johnson and fellow ocean rowers, I decided to purchase replacement AGM batteries. Load testing and scrutinizing the original batteries was not possible. Fortunately I was able to locate two AGM batteries in stock in Manila. Their purchase and day shipping was facilitated by Albay Yacht Club Commodore Fernand Imperial while he was visiting Manila.

Cyrel Chan of Your Brother Mayon ATV Tours was kind to arrange a bicycle for me from his friend Andrew Valencia Maravillas. This titanium framed light mountain bike with 29” wheels proved agile on my ride from Legazpi to Currimao between 18-29 January. Thinking ahead, I had brought along an Ortlieb handlebar bag and cross strap pedals that I prefer. We were able to modify the bicycle for my needs and with a hydration backpack, I was set with the bare essentials. Other items like a flat repair kit, bicycle pump, flashing light for night use and a rain poncho that I had toted from home, all proved vital during the ride north.

Marc Alvin Tan leading JCI Legazpi had alerted all the other JCI Philippines chapters along my route. They became partners to facilitate hosting and to provide cheerful company, treating me to authentic Philippine food and hospitality. Almost every chapter had a banner made to honor my journey; these were hanging at hotel entrances, staff getting in line to take pictures with this “Guinness record holder” in town.

On the first day, Jan 19, Martin Reynoso, his brother Moi and wife Isabel accompanied me until Naga City. I rode alone after that to Del Gallego and Lucena before I began approaching the sprawling Metro Manila.

The first three days were a deluge, requiring my poncho which felt stifling in the warm climate. On one occasion, I had to stop and observe vehicles cross a 300 meter section of highway where a creek had overrun the culvert. I wanted to get a feel for where the pavement was and to make sure that there were no potholes or sinkholes. The water was high enough that my chain was submerged when I rode through water the color of chocolate milk… the next order of business was to find chain oil in the next town!

There seemed to be only one rule for Philippine traffic — just don’t hit anyone. Otherwise the extended jeeps called jeepneys darted in and out of lanes, pulled across traffic or raced each other to pick up random passengers, tricycles were suspect to make a u-turn turning halfway across the lane before looking, trucks and buses belched sooty exhaust on me and noisy motorcycles filled any remaining gap in traffic. I often visualized the tricycles, a motorcycle with a two-cycle engine to which was attached a side car to carry a passenger or cargo, to be the modern day equivalent of Roman war chariots. The missing thing was a spinning blade attached to the wheel of the extended side car. Motorcycles and tricycles routinely used my side of the road to travel on the shoulder against the traffic. Typically I had to venture into traffic coming from behind to avoid a head on collision with these folks.

Before I could turn north toward Metro Manila, at Los Baños, a vehicle turned in front of me to the right from the second lane. I could barely control the bicycle as I braked and dropped the bike. My right foot didn’t come off the pedal strap in the quick sequence; the result was road rash on my right shin and deep gouges on my knee. My right elbow fared better though it all could have been worse. While there was no debilitating damage, my right knee felt stuffed and sore for a few days beyond that crash. The impact caused swelling of the tissue, perhaps the ligaments inside my knee were stretched a bit. The seeping rash took time to dry up. Good thing that I quickly found triple antibiotic ointment at a local pharmacy.

Attorney Mickey Celles in Manila had been busy coordinating with the surrounding JCI chapters to offer me a celebrity welcome. I battled gridlocked Manila traffic where sidewalks were narrow and often blocked by light posts. It was helpful to have a smartphone to find side streets and to mix walking with riding to make progress. I arrived at Marilao in the dark on the north side of Manila as planned. I was averaging about 110 km per day.

JCI had planned a two-day stay in Manila. The first morning, we visited the historic Spanish waterfront fort in downtown Manila called Intramuros, meaning “within walls.” Nestled among the fortifications, was a mixture of old and new buildings, and a well maintained church dating back centuries. Restaurants, guesthouses and bars were intermingled with businesses such as law, software or architecture which could tuck within these historic structures with their small footprint.

Bambike Ecotours which rented bamboo framed bicycles to tourists and arranged guided tours of Intramuros, was expecting us. Following such an educational tour, we had lunch and I was whisked to the Senate of the Philippines. I was in cycling shorts for that morning ride; besides my seeping rash was not conducive to wearing long pants.

I had been told that Senator Joseph Victor G. Ejército, lovingly called Senator JV by everyone, would bicycle with us. Instead we visited his office at the senate then I was taken to the legislative session scheduled that afternoon. I was asked to take a seat in a guest section at the back of the senate floor. During the session, they were kind to read into the senate minutes a summary of my accomplishments.

During a break in the session, Senate President Senator Juan Miguel Zubiri who was a member of the Philippine National Team for Arnis, which is the national martial art of the Philippines, came over to greet me. Senator JV  and Senator Pia Cayetano who are avid bicyclists also joined him in a celebratory mood. It is worthwhile to note that Senator Cayetano is keen on improving road safety in their nation for cyclists. Although I felt conscious of being underdressed in my cycling attire, they were gracious.

Very early the next morning, I joined Senator JV on his morning bicycle ride on a stretch of boulevard near the Manila waterfront and met his cycling friends. That stretch was closed to traffic until 08:00 every morning to accommodate cyclists. The Senator was showing genuine interest in my story. I could sense an ally in him…

That afternoon I made sure to visit Niyazi Evren Akyol, the Turkish Ambassador to Manila. I had been exchanging messages with the embassy since before my arrival at Legazpi last March, informing them of my intentions and actual progress. I was excited to share with him my story.

After the two day rest in Manila, it was time to continue my ride north from Marilao. Mickey took me back there and I resumed my journey toward Tarlac City. On the way, recognizing me from a television interview, two police officers and a fellow rider stopped me to take pictures together.

When in Tarlac City, JCI member and a triathlete Cjyrusven Taguines greeted me. A big banner was at the hotel entrance, announcing my arrival.

When I returned to the hotel after dinner with JCI members, they told me someone was waiting to see me. He was Ric Rodriguez, the Sports Director of 7-11 Philippines bicycle racing team. He had brought me a team t-shirt, a pair of chromatic sunglasses, water bottles and a baseball cap. We shared stories, he told me about their team and even invited a few of his riders to join me in the morning. I was thankful for the gear, but could only keep the t-shirt and the sunglasses; I just had no room to carry the rest.

Half way from Tarlac City at Urdaneta, Mickey’s friend Nico Andrada joined me by bicycle and we pedaled until Agoo together. He had an assistant pick him up then bring him back the next morning. He had a farm and an orchard in the area, a pleasant disposition and a big smile. He sure made the hot and humid ride during those two days more tolerable; part of me was missing the cloud cover and the cooler rain.

A quick lunch stop at the historic plaza in Vigan City was an opportunity for the local JCI members to treat me to their famous empanada. Around Vigan Plaza were historic two story buildings which survived WW2. Vigan was not bombed by the Japanese then…

About 20km south of Currimao on 29 January, I entered Ilocos Norte where I was greeted by “Road Rats Philippines” motorcycle club members Billy Breisch, Mimi Sadian and Andreas Daus.

Mimi was a friend of Shirley Remoquillo, my host at Legazpi Oceanfront Hostel. Mimi knew everyone in Currimao. The mayor of Currimao, honorable Edward “Beyot” Quilala was also there to welcome me to their province, and even the servicemen wanted pictures with me.

Mimi’s husband Billy had introduced me to Omnico Natural Resources Inc harbormaster Antonio Kho. We already had a Messenger group going for a few weeks; it was time to meet in person. ONRI Port will be my launch point.

Captain Kho had earlier told us that their crane was not working which put me in a tailspin trying to figure out how we were going to launch. We considered trailering but there was no reasonable boat ramp to launch. A tall backhoe at the port could have been a substitute for the crane. I was relieved when he said that they now had the crane in working condition; it just needed a few new tires. We spent some time sorting lifting straps to ensure we had enough with the correct length then I could relax! I was going to return to Legazpi with a peace of mind to then bring my rowboat to ONRI Port.

I pedaled another 5 km in the company of Road Rats from the port to Playa Tropical Resort where the proprietor Toni Carag greeted me with a huge smile and placed a lae around my neck. It was time to rest.